![]() |
Behind The Stick Interviews with the Movers and Shakers in the World of Mixology Hosted by Blair Frodelius of GoodSpiritsNews.com |
![]() |
Rumbullion A Conversation with Martin Cate "The
more I dove into rum, the
more I loved unearthing its history and tasting the old magic.”
- Martin Cate
MC: I love its versatility, it's vast historical significance, and the fact that it's magically delicious. GSN: Off the top of your head, what are the five rums that every spirit enthusiast should try in their lifetime? MC: That is such a hard question, because today in the market, there are literally hundreds of great rums- more than have been available in almost a century, ![]() MC: I think we're definitely moving towards premium and super premium rums. As the American consumer re-discovers rum and falls in love again with its complex flavor and (for now) attractive price point, I see less and less interest in flavored stuff. Spiced is experiencing a big surge right now, and I see that as a better gateway to premium rums than some of the weirdly flavored products. GSN: What should people be aware of when tasting rum? In other words, how can they tell an amazing spirit from an average one? MC: Because it's so diverse, I'm looking for different things when trying different rums- I don't look for the same components in rhum agricoles as I look for in dry, Spanish-style molasses rums. So it's hard to classify briefly. One thing to notice is an overabundance of vanilla in a non-spiced rum, which is a sign that it's possibly been "juiced" with extra vanilla to soften some rough edges. GSN: What is your favorite rum cocktail? MC: It's the one in my hand! I don't have a favorite rum cocktail. Sometimes I'm in the mood for a big complex tiki drink, sometimes I just like a rum old fashioned. A nice daiquiri is still the best way to showcase a good rum, with fresh lime juice and nice quality sugar, both of which should be restrained so that they don't cover up the rum. ![]() GSN: Speaking of tiki drinks, they've been celebrating a renaissance over the past few years. What do you attribute this to? MC: It's really the same thing that kicked it off in the first place- a desire for escapism, largely as a result of bad economic times. People love to forget the 9 to 5 and imagine a world of perpetual dusk with exotic beverages. Tiki was such an enormous part of American life for over 30 years, and was so very nearly eliminated from the pubic consciousness, that its return seems revelatory; as if to say, "Where has this been all my life?!" GSN: How did you get into tiki culture? Was it always a fascination for you, or did you have an epiphany? ![]() GSN: What in your opinion are the major differences between how Trader Vic (Victor Bergeron) and Donn Beach (Don the Beachcomber) approached creating faux tropical drinks? MC: Donn's drinks are, in general, more baroque and there are certain favorite flavors that he loved that Vic rarely touched, like herbsaint. Vic's drinks were more straightforward preparations, but still complex and interesting. Vic, perhaps because he was French, loved orgeat, which Donn never really used. It's a lot more complicated than this short summary, but that's a general overview. ![]() SN: Speaking of uncomplicated drinks, do you think blender drinks will make a comeback, or have frozen margaritas and daiquiris sullied their reputation? (Fred Waring and his innovative blender pictured at right circa 1937). MC: I think blender drinks are well poised for a comeback. Modern blenders are better than ever at creating excellent uniform ice consistency & aeration, while being quieter than ever. I think you still have to hold a consumer's hand to get them on board initially, but at the end of the day, it's the quality of ingredients that counts- make sure your customers know that it's good stuff in their glass. GSN: What are some of your favorite tiki bars and bartenders around the world? ![]() GSN: You yourself run a world class tiki/rum bar. Tell us about Smuggler's Cove (seen below) and your ethos in running it. MC: Smuggler's Cove is a tiki-centered celebration of rum. I wanted to open a no-compromise, all-fresh, all-premium tiki bar, but with a larger vision. ![]() ![]() MC: The Rumbustion Society is a club that combines the bottomless pleasure of drinking rum with an educational component. We've got hundreds of Disciples, 19 Guardians, 7 Masters, and 3 who have entered the secret 300+ Club. We've done two distillery trips so far with Masters, and have a third coming up in early 2012. ![]() MC: The mascot of the revolution is Tiki Bob, in Che Guevara drag. Tiki Bob is the name used to refer to the tiki mug mascot/log of the old San Francisco restaurant Tiki Bob's. It was opened by Bob Bryant, a former Trader Vic's manager. It is thought that the Tiki Bob mug is possible the first ever tiki mug- or mug to feature a tiki of some kind. (There were coconut and bamboo mugs prior). The place is long gone, but the support post out front that is carved in the shape of Bob is still there. Do a Google Image search for "Tiki Bob" and ignore the crappy & unrelated "Tiki Bob's Cantina" results. GSN: What are your favorite items in your Tiki/rum collection? ![]() GSN: As you've traveled around the U.S. what differences do you see between West coast and East coast cocktail culture? What part does rum play in these differences? MC: I think the distinctions are pretty blurred at this point. As far as rum is concerned, I see top cocktail places on both coasts embracing premium rums as a base spirit more and more, particullarly for spiritous cocktails. Where you might have once grabbed a rye or brandy, rum is starting to appear more and more on menus in stirred cocktails with amaros and herbal liqueurs. This is a real testament to the increasing number of great rum brands out there today and how they are making themselves visible to mixologists. GSN: Thanks for chatting, Martin. One last question I always ask bartenders, what do you think the origin of the word “cocktail” is? MC: I feel pretty good about the egg cup story. (for more cocktail origin theories, click here). When
not behind the stick at Smuggler's Cove, Martin can be found somewhere
in the world expounding upon the various joys of rum!
Blair Frodelius lives in
upstate New York - Interviewed by Blair
Frodelius; November, 2011
|
||
![]() |
![]() |